Only skincare gurus have ever heard of azelaic acid, and it’s a shame because you’ll want to try it for its many benefits. Although many toners and acid treatments have earned an unfair reputation for irritating the skin, azelaic acid is 100% safe to use daily as a spot treatment.
While there are many azelaic acid benefits, its safety is the main reason to use this ingredient instead of anything else. There are so few topical treatments that can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding mothers, but azelaic acid isn’t off-limits. In fact, its use is often encouraged.
Dermatologists are allowed to prescribe formulas that range from 15%-20% potency, and unless the person is allergic, they shouldn’t receive any adverse effects except for dryness. However, if you slowly increase the percentage in your formula, your skin shouldn’t react negatively.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid produced in wheat and plants. Thanks to its ability to reduce melanin production, inflammation, and bacteria production, it can do the following.
Azelaic Acid Can Fight Against Acne
Azelaic acid can fight mild and moderate types of non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne. That means this ingredient is an unstoppable force against blackheads, whiteheads, pustules, papules, cysts, and nodules. Azelaic acid is especially effective at killing acne-causing bacteria.
Azelaic Acid is Anti-Inflammatory
When used correctly, azelaic acid can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. There’s no better topical for conditions like rosacea and sensitive skin. When paired with hyaluronic acid, another soothing and nutrient-rich ingredient, azelaic acid stops inflammation in its tracks.
Azelaic Acid Evens Skin Tones
While it’s true that azelaic acid is often used for acne-prone skin, it’s especially useful for toning and evening out skin complexion. Whether you have dark spots, acne marks, or pigmentation, azelaic acid will brighten up those problem areas on your face and block abnormal skin tones.
It’s essential to use azelaic acid as directed by the product's package or your dermatologist. Before applying any topical on your face, be sure to consider the following safety precautions.
Start With a Weaker Formula
Whether you have sensitive or oily skin, azelaic acid can irritate your skin when you start using it. While you don’t have to use the weakest formula available, you shouldn’t start at 15%. We recommend starting with a 10% formula and working your way up to a 15% prescription.
Apply Twice a Week to Start
Your skin will eventually be able to handle a daily azelaic acid application, but not at first. In the first 2 weeks, only apply it twice a week. If after 2 weeks you’re experiencing no irritation, move up to once every other day. At the 7 to 8-week mark, you should be safe to use it once a day.
Only Use Azelaic Acid at Night
Azelaic acid should be applied at the end of your skincare routine, but don’t go to bed directly afterward. After massaging the product into your skin, wait 15 minutes for the acid to absorb. If you get in bed right away, you risk smudging the acid and accidentally lighting the wrong areas.
Avoid Certain Foods/Ingredients
Hot drinks, spicy foods, and alcoholic beverages can cause your skin to become inflamed, which can affect the azelaic acid negatively. Topical ingredients, like astringents, peeling agents, alcohol, or abrasives, may also make your skin more sensitive, leading to dry or patchy skin.
Don’t Use it on Irritated Skin
Sometimes azelaic acid will stop working as normal and irritate your skin. When that happens, don’t continue to use acidic skincare products until your skin recovers. Instead, use hydrating lotions, creams, and serums to keep your skin soft and full of nutrients until it calms down.