Crete is the largest Greek island and is famed for its natural landscape of spectacular mountains and valleys, shady forests and beautiful sandy beaches. The island’s sunny weather, laid back atmosphere and buzzing nightlife attracts tourists from across Europe. Most visitors come to soak up the sun and sea and to enjoy the local tavernas and restaurants, but Crete also has a fascinating history and culture, including a Jewish history that stretches back to the ancient world.
Crete isn’t a major travel destination for American Jews so it’s worth getting a quick overview that will help to put the Island’s Jewish heritage into perspective. Modern Crete is part of Greece and lies in the Mediterranean Sea, roughly between Greece, Turkey and North Africa. Ancient Crete was a cradle of European civilization from around 2,700 BCE, spawning the early Minoan and Mycenaean cultures.
The voyage from Israel to Crete was relatively straightforward (by the standards of the time) and there is strong evidence of trade and other interactions between the Cretans and early Israelites. The recorded Jewish presence in mainland Greece and Crete can be traced back to the fourth century BCE and the Romaniote communities continued throughout the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman eras. Greek Jews developed a distinct liturgical tradition and the Yevanic dialect. An influx of Sephardic refugees, fleeing the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, brought fresh cultural influences.
The Cretan Jewish communities experienced mixed fortunes over the centuries and many emigrated during the 19th and 20th centuries. When Crete was occupied by the Germans in World War Two, only 360 Cretan Jews remained.
On the 12th May 1944 the Nazis ordered the deportation of all Cretan Jews to Auschwitz. They were herded aboard a transport ship the Tánaïs, alongside up to 300 Italian POWs and 400 Cretan Christian detainees. The Germans neglected to mark the ship as a prisoner transport and it was torpedoed by a British submarine. The Tánaïs sank in just 12 seconds and almost everybody on board perished. It was the end of the 2,300 year old Cretan Jewish community.
Although the Cretan Jews did not survive World War Two, one of the community’s key historical sites did. The 17th century Romaniote Etz Hayyim Synagogue and its mikveh still exist today. After decades of disuse and neglect, it was renovated in the late 1990s and is now open to the public. The Etz Hayyim Synagogue is located in the northern port of Chania (Hania) and is all that really remains of the town’s Jewish past. A walking tour of Chania will also include a visit to the Tánaïs memorial and to the archaeological museum that contains some interesting Jewish artifacts.
The restoration of the Etz Hayyim Synagogue was privately funded and it is now maintained through donations to a Greek non-profit organisation. The Etz Hayyim functions as a non-denominational synagogue for all Jews who wish to pray or attend a Kabbalat Shabbat or holiday service. It also hosts a variety of cultural, educational and social events throughout the year. Tourism - and Jewish tourism in particular - aids the preservation of the precious Etz Hayyim Synagogue and helps to preserve the memory of the Cretan Jewish community.
Heraklion is Crete’s largest city and its modern administrative center. Heraklion is most famous for the wonderful Knossos palace but it also offers a few tantalising glimpses of its ancient Jewish past. The Jewish Quarter of Heraklion was located near the seafront and enclosed by Venetian walls. It’s a fascinating place to explore with an expert guide who can point out buildings and features with a historical Jewish connection and explain their significance.
The Jewish cemetery in Heraklion was sadly demolished, but the site remains and some of the most interesting tombstones and other artifacts are displayed in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. It’s one of the largest museums in Greece and history buffs can easily spend hours enjoying the exhibitions. The Historical Museum of Crete is an equally interesting place and preserves a number of important Jewish artifacts.
Crete is a wonderful destination for a luxury family vacation and there are plenty of outdoor activities to keep even the most energetic kids happy. It’s also a unique cultural destination with thousands of years of history and archaeology and remnants of some of the world’s greatest empires. When you explore Crete’s ancient - and often turbulent - Jewish history, it’s worth planning a tour with an experienced Jewish travel company.
You’ll really benefit from the expert knowledge of local historians who can bring the Island’s Jewish past to life. Today there are only a handful of Jewish residents in Crete (although the island is a popular destination for Israeli tourists). The lack of an established local Jewish community makes it harder to identify Jewish heritage sites and to unpick the rich folklore and stories once associated with them. An organized tour will help you to dig deeper and learn more about Crete’s Jewish past. Your tour company can also arrange chauffeured transport, and advise on kosher-friendly luxury hotels or self-catering villa rentals, and kosher food options.
Summers in Crete can be hot, which is great if you’re planning a watersports and beach-based vacation, or just want to relax by the pool with a good book. If you’re thinking in terms of walking tours of Jewish heritage sites, or hiking some of the island’s amazing nature trails, consider a trip in the spring or autumn. The weather is usually pleasantly sunny but not hot.
The other advantage of traveling during the off season is that there will be fewer tourists. If you’re part of a seniors’ group that wants to explore Cretan and Jewish history and culture, this can be a big plus. Talk to Gil Travel today about creating a tailored itinerary that combines kosher luxury travel and accommodation with guided visits to Jewish heritage sites and the very best of Crete’s other cultural and historical treasures.
Author Bio
Iris Hami is President of Gil Travel Group, the largest travel management firm sending people to Israel. She has over 40 years of experience in the travel industry, and uses that knowledge to craft unique Jewish journeys around the world. Her company has won multiple awards, including one from State of Israel Bonds for Extraordinary Achievements Promoting the State of Israel. They send over 40,000 travelers to Israel and other international locations each year.