Since ancient times, jewellery has been termed as not only something decorative but used as a cultural representative. With the carvings of various motifs and elaborate designs, South Indian Jewellery is one that you need to watch out for.
The culture is known to have preference for gold, pearls and precious stones, just like the rest of India. But what sets them apart is that the ornaments like necklaces, earrings and belts were worn first by classical dancers for performance at the temples. So naturally, the jewellery has a tone of divinity attached to it. Therefore, the motifs inspired by temples, nature and mythology are crafted intricately using various techniques. Later, under the Nayakas and Marathas, Mughal influences led to kundan and meenakari styles. The colonial era introduced European techniques but retained traditional aesthetics. Today, South Indian jewellery remains deeply tied to heritage, weddings, and classical dance. If you feel confused by which kinds of ornaments you can pick, we are here to decode the same!
Kasumalai / Kasumala / Kasinasara / Kasulaperu / Coin Necklace: This kind of necklace is one of the most popular necklaces in temple jewellery as well as south Indian bridal jewellery. The necklace is adorned with small coins that are placed one besides the other. Generally made of gold, the coins have intricate motifs of deities like Lakshmi and Ram.
Guttapusalu Haram: It is an elegant traditional South Indian necklace that can be a statement jewellery in itself. It features tiny gold beads with clusters of pearl strands (pusalu) on the fringes of the beads. Originating from Andhra Pradesh, it is crafted in gold and adorned with intricate motifs like Lakshmi, peacocks and floral vines.
Gundala Haram: The name Gundala refers to the round gold or gemstone beads strung together in multiple layers or a single strand. Crafted in gold, it is often adorned with pearls, rubies, emeralds, and uncut diamonds called polki. Some of the interesting motifs include paisley, conch shells, celestial swan and crescent moon with a dot.
Temple Lakshmi Haram: It is an ornate long gold necklace that features motifs of Goddess Lakshmi on a lotus which represents wealth and divine blessings. This necklace is also adorned with intricate carvings, temple-inspired designs and auspicious elements like elephants, peacocks, elephants. With kundan, polki and other gemstone inlays, this is a must-have when you buy bridal jewellery.
Nakshi Haram: Known for its intricate hand-carved (nakshi) designs, this gold necklace reflects the famous temple artistry in south Indian jewellery. It features detailed embossing of nature-inspired motifs such as mythical crocodiles, serpents, lotuses and parrots. It also features deities such as Vishnu, Lakshmi, Ganesh as well as Ram-Sita and Radha-Krishna. For further decoration, stones such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds and polki are used.
Kemp Necklace: The term kemp refers to the red stones that are usually rubies or spinels. Along with the red stones, the Kemp necklace also sports green gemstone embellishments. Set in gold or silver, this fancy necklace features motifs such as Lakshmi Kasu (coin patterns symbolizing prosperity), Chandbali (crescent shapes for femininity), Peacock (grace and beauty), and Nagapadam (serpent hoods for protection).
Manga malai / Mangamala / Mango Haram / Paisley Necklace: A well-loved piece in Indian bridal jewellery, the necklace consists of mango-shaped pendants. Inspired by nature, manga malai is considered a symbol of marital bliss, wealth and prosperity. It can also be encrusted with rubies, emeralds or diamonds.
Palakkamala: It is a traditional Kerala gold necklace featuring leaf-shaped (palakka) motifs that represent fertility, renewal, and prosperity. It is adorned with green enamel or emerald stones, often complemented by rubies for contrast. Variations include Nagapadam Palakka (serpent-hood design for protection), Lakshmi Palakka (with Goddess Lakshmi for wealth), and Kasu Palakka (gold coins for prosperity).
Mullamottu Mala: Crafted in gold, it features a row of intricately shaped petal-like elements resembling jasmine buds, arranged in a graceful, symmetrical pattern. Some variations include the Lakshmi Mullamottu Mala (with Goddess Lakshmi motifs for prosperity), Kasu Mullamottu Mala (gold coins for wealth) and Navaratna Mullamottu Mala (embedded with nine gemstones for divine blessings).
Papidi Billa / Netrichutti/ Nettichutti/ Mundale/ Mang Tika: A must-have head accessory to consider when you buy south jewellery, it is worn along the hair parting. Made with gold or silver, it has designs such as Lakshmi, chandbali and Nagapadam. Embellished with rubies, emeralds, pearls, or Kundan work, it may include a single pendant or side chains.
Vanki / Armlet: This is a popular statement jewellery piece worn on the upper arm. Designed in shapes like V or inverted U, it is crafted from precious metals like gold or silver. For further decoration, the armlets are encrusted with colored stones in hues like red, green, yellow and purple. Symbolizing strength, protection, and grace, the vanki is an important part of wedding jewellery.
Vaddanam / Arapatta / Oddiyanam / Hipbelt: Made of precious metals like gold or silver, this staple piece from south Indian jewellery, is worn at the waist to accentuate it and give the look a subtle feminine appeal. It also serves a practical purpose by securing saree. These belts are known for their elaborate temple motifs and carvings that are often beautified by colorful gemstones.